The Ultimate 7-Step Guide To Mastering The Dutch Braid (The 'Inside-Out' French Braid)

The Dutch braid is the cornerstone of voluminous, textured hairstyles, and learning how to braid Dutch hair is one of the most rewarding skills you can master in 2024. Often called a "reverse French braid" or an "inside-out braid," this technique creates a stunning, raised effect where the braid sits on top of the hair, making it look thicker and more defined than a traditional braid. The key difference lies in the technique: while a French braid crosses strands over the middle section, the Dutch braid crosses them under, which is what gives it that signature three-dimensional look.

This comprehensive, step-by-step guide is perfect for beginners looking to achieve a sleek single Dutch braid or a trendy double Dutch look. We'll walk you through the essential preparation, the crucial "underhand" technique, and expert tips to ensure your braids are flawless every time, regardless of your hair length.

The Essential Difference: Dutch Braid vs. French Braid

Before diving into the steps, understanding the fundamental distinction between the two most popular braiding techniques—the Dutch braid and the French braid—is essential for success. This knowledge ensures you are using the correct hand movements from the start.

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• French Braid (The 'Over' Technique): This is the classic, flat braid. You cross the outer strands over the middle strand as you incorporate new hair. The braid blends seamlessly into the hair, creating a smooth, woven appearance.
• Dutch Braid (The 'Under' Technique): This is the 'inside-out' version. You cross the outer strands under the middle strand as you incorporate new hair. This "underhand" technique forces the braid to pop out from the scalp, giving it a bold, raised, and voluminous look.

Because of its raised structure, the Dutch braid is also sometimes referred to as a "cornrow," although cornrows are typically created in very tight, small sections close to the scalp. The Dutch braid offers a modern, versatile style perfect for everything from gym sessions to special occasions.

Preparation: Getting Your Hair Ready for Braiding

Proper preparation is half the battle when learning how to braid Dutch hair. A clean, smooth base prevents tangles and ensures your sections are crisp and easy to manage.

Necessary Tools and Products:

• Detangling Brush or Wide-Tooth Comb: To ensure your hair is completely knot-free.
• Sectioning Clips: Crucial for keeping the rest of your hair out of the way, especially for double Dutch braids.
• Hair Tie or Elastic Bands: To secure the end of the braid.
• Hairspray, Pomade, or Braiding Gel: A light application of a product can help tame flyaways and add grip, making the hair easier to control, especially for sleek styles.

Step-by-Step Hair Prep:

1. Detangle Thoroughly: Start with dry or slightly damp hair. Use your brush to remove every knot from root to tip.
2. Apply Product (Optional but Recommended): Rub a small amount of pomade or a light gel between your palms and lightly coat the hair where you plan to braid. This adds texture and prevents strands from slipping.
3. Create Your Part: For a single Dutch braid, part your hair down the middle or slightly to the side. For the popular double Dutch braid, create a sharp, clean center part from your forehead all the way to the nape of your neck and clip one side out of the way.

The 7-Step Master Tutorial: How to Braid Dutch

This is the core technique. Focus on keeping your hands close to the scalp and maintaining tension on the strands. The key is to always pass the outer sections under the middle one.

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1. Isolate Your Starting Section: At the crown of your head (or near your part for a double braid), grab a small, triangular section of hair. The smaller the section, the tighter and more intricate the final braid will be.
2. Divide into Three Strands: Split this starting section into three equal strands: a left strand (L), a middle strand (M), and a right strand (R).
3. The First 'Under' Crossover (Right): Take the right strand (R) and cross it under the middle strand (M). The right strand is now the new middle strand.
4. The Second 'Under' Crossover (Left): Take the left strand (L) and cross it under the new middle strand (R). The left strand is now the new middle strand. You have completed one full cycle of a basic three-strand braid using the underhand technique.
5. Incorporate New Hair (Right Side): Now, before crossing the right strand (which is currently on the right side) under again, pick up a small, new section of loose hair from the right side of your head and combine it with the current right strand. Then, take this combined, thicker right strand and cross it under the middle strand.
6. Incorporate New Hair (Left Side): Repeat the process on the left. Pick up a small, new section of loose hair from the left side of your head and combine it with the current left strand. Then, take this combined, thicker left strand and cross it under the middle strand.
7. Repeat and Secure: Continue repeating steps 5 and 6, consistently adding new hair to the outer strands before crossing them under the middle strand. Continue braiding all the way down the head until you run out of hair to add. Finish the rest of the length with a standard three-strand braid (still using the 'under' technique) and secure with a hair tie.

Advanced Tips and Popular Dutch Braid Hairstyles for 2024/2025

Once you’ve mastered the basic technique, you can elevate your style with a few expert tips and explore the latest Dutch braid trends.

Expert Braiding Tips:

• Maintain Consistent Tension: This is the most crucial tip. Keep a firm, even grip on all three strands throughout the entire process. Losing tension is what causes the braid to look messy or fall apart.
• Keep Sections Equal: Try to add the same amount of hair on the left and right sides in steps 5 and 6. Uneven sections lead to a lopsided or unbalanced braid.
• Pancake the Braid (For Volume): After securing the braid, gently pull apart the loops of the braid with your fingers, starting from the bottom and working your way up. This technique, called 'pancaking,' dramatically increases the volume and gives the braid a thick, relaxed, and bohemian look.
• Use Extensions: For those with shorter or finer hair, adding hair extensions is a popular technique in 2024 to achieve extra-long, voluminous Dutch braids.
• Practice on Damp Hair: For beginners, slightly damp hair or hair with a texturizing spray is often easier to grip and control than slick, clean hair.

Popular Dutch Braid Styles:

The Dutch braid is incredibly versatile and can be adapted for any hair length, including shorter styles like bobs and pixie cuts.

• Double Dutch Braids (Boxer Braids): The most popular variation, where you create two braids, one on each side of the head. This is a sporty, chic, and functional style.
• Dutch Braid Ponytail: Start a single Dutch braid at the crown and continue braiding until the nape of the neck, then gather the remaining hair into a high or low ponytail. This is a sleek, polished look.
• Dutch Braid Crown/Halo: This involves braiding the hair around the perimeter of the head, creating a beautiful, elegant halo effect, perfect for formal occasions.
• Voluminous Dutch Braid Bun: After finishing a single or double Dutch braid, coil the braided lengths into a voluminous, low bun at the nape of the neck. This style is often seen as a dressy, sexy option for special events in 2025.

By focusing on the 'underhand' technique and maintaining consistent tension, you'll find that mastering the Dutch braid is surprisingly straightforward. It’s a timeless, high-impact style that adds a professional, polished, and voluminous touch to your look.

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