The Ultimate 7-Step Guide: How To Master The Dutch Braid And Get Maximum Volume

The Dutch braid, often called the 'reverse French braid,' is the ultimate hairstyle for anyone looking to add dramatic, three-dimensional volume to their look. Unlike its cousin, the French braid, which blends into the hair, the Dutch braid stands proudly on top of the scalp, creating a stunning, 'popping out' effect that is perfect for everything from gym sessions to glamorous events. This detailed guide, updated for December 2025, breaks down the technique into seven simple steps, ensuring that even a complete beginner can master this classic yet intricate style.

Achieving a perfect Dutch braid requires a slight shift in technique—you must consistently weave the strands *under* the center piece, rather than over. This simple change is the secret to its elevated structure and bold texture. We’ll walk you through the preparation, the crucial underhand technique, expert tips for maintaining evenness, and how to finish your braid for a long-lasting, sleek, and voluminous style.

The Essential Dutch Braid Technique: A 7-Step Masterclass

The Dutch braid is fundamentally a three-strand braid that incorporates new sections of hair as it progresses down the head, but with a critical twist: the *underhand technique*. Follow these steps to create a single, stunning braid down the center of your head.

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Step 1: Preparation is Key for the Perfect Braid

• Detangle Completely: Start with clean, dry, and thoroughly detangled hair. Any knots will disrupt the flow and tension of your braid.
• Add Texture and Grip: For a smoother process and a longer-lasting braid, apply a small amount of texturizing spray or light hair oil to your strands. This adds necessary grip, making the hair less slippery and easier to manage, especially for fine hair.
• Create the Starting Section: Use a tail comb to section off a triangular piece of hair at the crown of your head, right at the hairline. The size of this section will determine the thickness of the top of your braid.

Step 2: Split and Begin the Underhand Weave

Take the starting section and split it into three equal working strands: a left strand, a center strand, and a right strand. The 'underhand' technique is the most crucial difference from a French braid.

• Right Under Center: Take the right strand and cross it *under* the center strand. The original right strand is now the new center strand.
• Left Under Center: Take the left strand and cross it *under* the new center strand. The original left strand is now the center.

Step 3: The Crucial Addition of New Hair

This is where the braid begins to attach to the scalp, moving from a simple three-strand braid to a true three-dimensional plait.

• Add to the Right: Before weaving the right strand again, grab a small, even section of loose hair from the right side of your head. Add this new hair to your existing right working strand.
• Weave Under: Take this newly thickened right strand and cross it *under* the center strand.

Step 4: Mirror the Process on the Left Side

Maintain the symmetry and tension by mirroring the addition process on the opposite side.

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• Add to the Left: Grab a small, even section of loose hair from the left side of your head, ensuring it is the same thickness as the hair added on the right. Add this new section to your existing left working strand.
• Weave Under: Take this newly thickened left strand and cross it *under* the center strand.

Step 5: Repeat and Maintain Braiding Tension

Continue repeating Steps 3 and 4 all the way down the back of your head. The key to a beautiful, professional-looking Dutch braid is consistent braiding tension.

• Keep It Tight: Always pull the working strands taut as you cross them under. This prevents the braid from becoming too loose or sloppy near the scalp.
• Even Sections: The most common mistake is adding uneven sections of hair. Focus on grabbing the same amount of hair from the scalp each time to ensure the braid’s thickness remains uniform.

Step 6: Finish with a Standard Braid

Once you run out of loose hair to add from the scalp (usually around the nape of your neck), transition to a standard three-strand braid.

• Three-Strand Finish: Continue crossing the left strand under the center and the right strand under the center, without adding any new hair.
• Secure: Secure the end of the braid with a small, clear elastic band.

Step 7: The 'Pancaking' Technique for Maximum Volume

This final step is what gives the Dutch braid its signature, voluminous look. It’s often referred to as 'pancaking' or 'pulling apart.'

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• Gently Pull: Starting from the top of the braid, gently pull apart the edges of each woven section with your fingertips.
• Work Downwards: Work your way down the entire length of the braid, pulling just enough to loosen the weave and widen the appearance of the braid without letting the strands fall apart. This technique dramatically enhances the voluminous look.

Dutch Braid vs. French Braid: Why the Underhand Technique Matters

Understanding the fundamental difference between the Dutch braid and the French braid is crucial for mastering the Dutch style. While both are attached braid styles that incorporate hair from the scalp, their weaving direction creates completely different aesthetic results.

• French Braid (Overhand): Strands are crossed *over* the center strand. This causes the braid to lie flat and flush against the head, creating a sleek, integrated look.
• Dutch Braid (Underhand / Reverse Braiding): Strands are crossed *under* the center strand. This technique forces the woven hair to pop out and sit on top of the surrounding hair, creating a bold, three-dimensional, and highly textured effect. This is why Dutch braids are often used for popular styles like Boxer Braids (Double Dutch Braids) and Dutch Pigtail Braids.

The Dutch braid’s elevated structure means it holds volume better and is often preferred for creating a more dramatic or intricate appearance, making it a favorite for festivals, sports, and fashion runways.

Pro Tips and Troubleshooting Common Dutch Braid Mistakes

The path to a perfect Dutch braid can have a few bumps. Here are the most common beginner mistakes and the expert fixes to ensure your braid is flawless, sleek, and long-lasting.

Mistake 1: Uneven Sections and Tapering

A braid that starts thick and gets thin quickly is usually a result of adding too much hair at the beginning and too little towards the end. This leads to uneven sections.

• The Fix: Before you even start, use sectioning clips to separate the hair you plan to add. As you braid, train your fingers to grab small, consistent, and equal amounts of hair from both the left and right sides. Think of each addition as a small, clean triangle of hair from the scalp.

Mistake 2: The Braid Becomes Loose or Floppy

If your braid sags or looks too loose near the scalp, you are not maintaining enough consistent tension.

• The Fix: Keep your hands close to the scalp at all times. After you cross a strand *under* the center, use your thumb and index finger to gently pull the working strands taut before adding the new section of hair. This trick helps 'anchor' the braid tightly to your head.

Mistake 3: Flyaways and Frizz

Loose, stray hairs (flyaways) can ruin the sleek look, especially around the face and part.

• The Fix: Use a light-hold hairspray or a dab of pomade on your fingertips *before* you start. As you braid, smooth down the hair along the part line and the perimeter of the braid. A sleek finish is all about control.

Advanced Technique: The Double Dutch Braid (Boxer Braids)

Once you’ve mastered the single Dutch braid, the next natural progression is the Double Dutch Braid. This popular style, also known as Boxer Braids, requires you to create a crisp, straight part down the center of your head with a tail comb. You then execute the exact 7-step Dutch braiding process on each side of the part independently, starting at the hairline and working back toward the nape of the neck. This creates a balanced, symmetrical, and incredibly secure hairstyle.