The Definitive Biography of Colt & Gray and Chef Nelson Perkins
Colt & Gray was not just a restaurant; it was a dual-concept dining experience that included the main floor gastropub and the basement speakeasy, Ste. Ellie (or Saint Ellie).
- Name: Colt & Gray (often confused with "Colt and Grey")
- Location: 1553 Platte Street, Denver, Colorado
- Concept: New American Gastropub with a focus on expertly prepared, sometimes offal-focused, cuisine.
- Sister Concept: Saint Ellie (also known as Ste. Ellie), a subterranean speakeasy celebrated for its cocktails and wine.
- Opening Date: Circa 2009
- Closing Date: December 21, 2019.
- Owner/Chef: Nelson Perkins
- Owner/Operator: Allison Perkins
- Culinary Background (Chef Perkins): Classically trained, earning the Grand Diplome de Cuisine, and spending time at prestigious establishments like Blue Hill in New York.
- Legacy: Credited as a "gastropub originator" and a torchbearer for a new frontier in national dining.
A Culinary Revolution: The Menu Items That Defined Colt & Gray’s Legacy
Colt & Gray’s menu was characterized by its creative, playful, and often challenging approach to New American cuisine. Chef Nelson Perkins’ vision was to blend rustic farmhouse charm with modern chic, offering dishes that were both high-brow and comforting. The restaurant catered to a wide range of diners, from carnivores to vegetarians, enriching the city's food culture.
The Infamous Sticky Toffee Pudding
No discussion of Colt & Gray is complete without mentioning its legendary Sticky Toffee Pudding. This dessert achieved near-mythical status in the Denver dining scene. The trick to its infamous richness, as revealed on the Food Network, was adding the decadent toffee sauce not once, but three times to the dish, resulting in an "oozy" and unforgettable experience. It remains one of the most missed menu items following the closure.
Offal-Focused Fare and Charcuterie
The restaurant built a reputation for its sophisticated use of offal, which refers to the internal organs and trimmings of a butchered animal. While this might sound intimidating, Perkins’ exquisite preparation made these dishes approachable and delicious, pushing the boundaries of what a Denver gastropub could offer. Furthermore, the charcuterie board was consistently hailed as one of the best in the city, a carnivore's paradise that showcased the chef's commitment to quality and craft.
The Speakeasy Connection: Saint Ellie
The experience at Colt & Gray was intrinsically linked to its subterranean counterpart, Saint Ellie (or Ste. Ellie). Located directly beneath the main dining room, this speakeasy was a destination in its own right, known for its expertly crafted cocktails, curated wine list, and intimate atmosphere. The synergy between the two concepts—fine dining above, sophisticated drinking below—created a complete and highly sought-after night out on Platte Street.
The Final Chapter: Why Did Colt & Gray Close and What Replaced It?
The decision to close Colt & Gray and Saint Ellie in late 2019 came as a shock to the Denver culinary community. Chef Nelson Perkins cited the challenging nature of the restaurant industry as a primary factor in the closure. Running a high-caliber establishment for a decade requires immense dedication, and the pressures of the modern dining landscape—including staffing and operational costs—ultimately led the Perkins to move on.
The closure was a significant moment, marking the end of a gastropub that had been a key player in the Highland neighborhood’s transformation. The memories of the warm glow from the fireplace and the vibrant bar scene continue to resonate with former patrons.
The New Tenants on Platte Street
The prime real estate at 1553 Platte Street did not stay vacant for long. The space that once housed the dual concepts of Colt & Gray and Saint Ellie is now home to a new pair of establishments, continuing the tradition of a two-in-one dining and drinking experience.
- Modis in the City: Occupying the former Colt & Gray space, this restaurant has taken over the mantle of the main dining room.
- Luci's Shambles: This concept now operates in the subterranean space, filling the cocktail and speakeasy void left by Saint Ellie.
The continuity of a restaurant/bar duo in the same location is a testament to the successful model established by the Perkins years ago, even as other new options like The Broken Cage have emerged in the area.
Chef Nelson Perkins Today: From Denver to Tampa, Florida
Perhaps the most current and relevant piece of information for fans of Colt & Gray is the new venture of Chef Nelson Perkins. After his decade-long run in Denver, Perkins has shifted his focus and location to the East Coast, specifically Tampa, Florida.
Chef Perkins, a classically trained culinary expert with experience at Blue Hill in New York, is now contributing his skills to the development of a new wine tasting bar at Sparkman Wharf. His role involves creating small plates that will complement the curated wine selection, bringing his signature blend of sophistication and approachable flavor to a new audience.
This move highlights the enduring talent of the chef who helped shape the Denver dining scene. While Colt & Gray remains a cherished memory, the spirit of its culinary innovation continues in new markets, giving former patrons a fresh location to follow the next evolution of Chef Perkins’ career. The legacy of the gastropub originator lives on, not just in the memories of its sticky toffee pudding, but in the ongoing success of the culinary minds who brought it to life.
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