7 Pro Secrets: How To Sew On A Button So It Never Falls Off Again

Losing a button is one of the most common and frustrating clothing mishaps, often leading to a quick, weak repair that inevitably fails again. The good news is that securing a button is not a mystery reserved for tailors; it’s a simple skill that, when done correctly with a few professional techniques, can make your button last longer than the garment itself. As of December 2025, the foundational steps remain the same, but the crucial difference lies in the advanced details—specifically, creating a proper thread shank.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through the essential tools, the step-by-step process for different button types, and the insider tips that ensure maximum durability, transforming a frustrating chore into a simple, permanent fix.

Essential Tools and Materials for a Professional Button Repair

Before you begin, gathering the right supplies is essential. A professional finish starts with high-quality materials, especially the thread, which is the button’s lifeline. Using standard all-purpose thread will often result in a quick failure on high-stress areas like cuffs or jacket fronts.

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• The Button: Ideally, the original spare button, often found sewn onto the inside seam of the garment.
• Needle: A sharp hand-sewing needle, ideally a 'sharps' type. Choose one with an eye large enough for your thread.
• Thread: This is critical. For maximum durability, use buttonhole thread (also known as heavy-duty or upholstery thread) or a specialty thread like Silamide. If using standard polyester thread, double it for extra strength.
• Spacer Tool (The Secret): A toothpick, a small matchstick, or a straight pin. This is used to create the crucial 'thread shank' (more on this below).
• Scissors: Small, sharp fabric scissors or snips.
• Optional: Beeswax or thread conditioner to run your thread through, which adds strength and prevents tangling.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Hand-Sewing a Flat (Sew-Through) Button

Flat buttons, which have two or four holes, are the most common type found on shirts, blouses, and trousers. The key to sewing these securely is using a double strand of thread and, for thicker fabrics, creating a thread shank.

Step 1: Preparing and Anchoring the Thread

Start by cutting about 18 inches of thread. Double the thread and knot the ends together. This creates a robust, four-strand connection point.

Turn your garment inside out. Bring the needle up through the fabric at the exact spot where the button needs to sit. Pull the thread through until the knot is snug against the back of the fabric. This is your initial anchoring stitch. Make a small second stitch to firmly secure the knot before positioning the button.

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Step 2: Positioning the Button and the Toothpick Trick

Place the button on the marked spot. For any garment thicker than a light shirt (like a jacket, coat, or blazer), you must create a thread shank. The shank is a small column of thread between the button and the fabric that allows the fabric of the buttonhole to fit neatly underneath when fastened, preventing puckering and making the button easier to use.

Place your toothpick or matchstick directly on top of the button between the two holes you will be sewing through. This acts as a temporary spacer.

Step 3: Sewing the Button Stitches

Bring the needle up through the fabric, through the first hole in the button, and over the toothpick. Then, pass the needle down through the second hole and back through the fabric to the underside. Do not pull the thread tight; the toothpick must remain loose.

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Repeat this process 6 to 8 times for a shirt and 10 to 12 times for a coat or jacket, always passing the needle over the toothpick.

For a 4-hole button, you can choose a square pattern (sewing the holes in parallel rows) or an 'X' pattern (sewing diagonally across the holes). Both are equally strong, but the 'X' pattern is often preferred for a classic look and extra security.

7 Pro Secrets for Maximum Button Durability

A basic repair is fine, but a professional repair requires finishing touches that prevent the thread from fraying or unraveling under stress. These steps ensure your button is permanently attached.

The most important secret is the creation and finishing of the thread shank.

1. Create the Thread Shank (The Final Step)

Once you have completed your stitches, remove the toothpick or matchstick. This immediately creates a small amount of slack—your future shank.

Bring the needle up from the underside of the fabric, but do not go through the button hole. Instead, bring it up between the button and the fabric, right into the slack area.

2. Whip the Shank for Unbreakable Strength

Wrap the thread tightly around the exposed stitches (the shank) 4 to 6 times. This is called 'whipping' or 'bar tacking' the shank. This process binds the stitches together, protecting them from abrasion and locking the button into its new, elevated position.

3. Knot and Finish Securely

Pass the needle back to the underside of the fabric near the base of the shank. On the back of the garment, run the needle under a few of the existing stitches. Form a small loop and pass the needle through the loop 2-3 times to create a secure tailor's knot. Trim the thread close to the fabric. Do not cut the thread too close to the knot, as it may unravel.

4. Know Your Button Types

Understand the difference between a flat button and a shank button. A true shank button has a loop or hole on its back, which already creates the necessary space. When sewing a shank button, you do not need the toothpick trick, but you should still reinforce the connection by stitching through the loop 8-10 times and finishing with a strong knot on the back.

5. Use the Right Thread for the Job

For heavy-duty items like denim or coats, always use buttonhole thread. This thread is thicker and has a tighter twist than all-purpose thread, making it highly resistant to the friction of buttoning and unbuttoning.

6. The Machine Sewing Shortcut

If you have a sewing machine, you can sew a button in seconds. Set your machine to a zigzag stitch and lower the feed dogs (or cover them). Adjust the stitch width until the needle swings perfectly into the center of each button hole. Sew for 10-15 stitches, then pull the threads to the back and tie them off.

7. Use a Pin for Uniform Slack

If you don't have a toothpick, a straight pin or a small safety pin placed over the button can also serve as a spacer to create the thread shank, ensuring uniform slack every time.