The Ultimate 5-Step Guide To Safely Take Out Any Shower Drain (Even The Stuck Ones)

Removing a shower drain is a necessary step for deep cleaning a persistent clog, replacing a broken or corroded fixture, or performing maintenance on the shower pan underneath. As of December 2025, the process remains a straightforward DIY task, but it requires the correct tools and a precise understanding of your specific drain type to avoid damaging the plumbing or the shower base.

The biggest challenge isn't the difficulty, but the corrosion and grime buildup over years of use, which can make a simple unscrew job feel like a major plumbing project. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process, from removing the simple strainer cover to tackling the main drain flange, ensuring you have the topical authority and knowledge to handle even the most stubborn drain.

Essential Tools and Pre-Removal Checklist

Before you begin the process of taking out your shower drain, proper preparation is key. Having the right tools on hand will save you multiple trips to the hardware store and prevent frustration when dealing with a stuck component. The type of drain you have—whether a traditional point drain, a linear drain, or a specific pop-up mechanism—will dictate the exact tools required.

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Required Tools and Supplies

• Flathead Screwdriver: Essential for prying up snap-in covers and removing small set screws.
• Channel-Lock Pliers: Versatile for gripping and turning various drain components.
• Specialized Drain Wrench: A crucial tool for screw-in drains. Options include a dumbbell wrench, a crown tub drain wrench, or a specialized drain extractor tool.
• Utility Knife or Wire: For cutting through old plumber's putty or silicone sealant around the drain body.
• Penetrating Spray: (e.g., WD-40) For loosening corroded or rusted metal threads on a stuck drain flange.
• Safety Glasses and Gloves: To protect against sharp edges and grime.
• New Sealant: Always use 100% silicone caulk for the new installation, as it is recommended for permanent, watertight applications in high-moisture shower environments, unlike plumber's putty which is better for temporary seals.

Why Are You Removing the Drain? (Common Intentions)

Understanding your goal helps determine how far you need to proceed with the removal:

• Clog Removal: If the water is backing up or draining slowly, you may only need to remove the strainer or cover to use a plastic hair snake or a coat hanger to clear hair buildup and soap scum.
• Drain Replacement: If the old drain is cracked, rusted, or causing persistent odors, you'll need to remove the entire drain flange and replace it with a new one.
• Shower Pan Repair: This requires full removal of the drain body to access the shower pan components underneath.

Step-by-Step Guide: Removing the Drain Cover or Strainer

The first step in any shower drain removal procedure is to get the cover or strainer out of the way. This part is often the simplest, but removal methods vary significantly based on the design.

1. Screw-In Covers (Most Common Point Drains)

Inspect the cover for one or two small screws, typically located in the center or near the edge. Use a flathead or Phillips screwdriver to unscrew them. Once the screws are removed, the strainer should lift right out. If it is stuck due to mineral deposits, gently pry up on the edge with the flathead screwdriver.

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2. Snap-In or Press-Fit Covers

These covers have no visible screws and are held in place by prongs or clips. The easiest method is often to use a thin, stiff wire or a bent coat hanger. Weave the wire through two openings near the edge of the strainer and pull straight up.

Alternatively, you can use a flathead screwdriver. Locate a small notch or seam around the edge, insert the screwdriver, and gently twist and pry upward to pop the cover free. Be careful not to scratch the shower pan.

3. Pop-Up or Plunger Style Drains

These drains open and close with a mechanism. First, check if the top cap unscrews by turning it counterclockwise. Some have a small set screw on the side that must be loosened first. If it's a "toe-tap" style, you may need to hold the center shaft steady while turning the cap. For a very old or difficult pop-up drain, you might need to use channel-lock pliers to carefully grab and unscrew the center brass piece after breaking an outer white collar (a common design in older units).

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Step-by-Step Guide: Removing the Main Drain Flange (The Hard Part)

Once the cover is gone, you are left with the main drain flange—the part that screws directly into the drain body or P-trap assembly. This is often the most challenging step because the flange is sealed with old plumber's putty or silicone and may be severely corroded.

4. Loosening the Drain Flange with a Wrench

The interior of the drain flange will typically have two perpendicular crossbars (a cross-hair pattern) designed to accept a specialized tool. This is where your drain wrench comes in.

• Insert the dumbbell wrench or crown tub drain wrench into the crossbars.
• Turn the wrench counterclockwise. You may need to apply significant force to break the old sealant.
• If you don't have a drain wrench, a temporary solution is to insert the handles of a pair of large channel-lock pliers upside-down into the crossbars and use the handles as leverage to turn the flange.

5. Dealing with a Stuck or Rusted Drain Flange

If the drain flange turns freely but doesn't seem to be unscrewing, or if it is completely rusted in place, you have a stuck drain. This is a common problem, often caused by corrosion or a broken P-trap connection.

The Penetrating Spray Method (First Resort)

Apply a generous amount of penetrating spray (like WD-40) to the threads of the drain flange. Allow it to sit for at least 30 minutes, or even overnight, to dissolve rust and loosen the connection. Then, attempt to use the drain wrench again.

The Destruction Method (Last Resort for Corroded Drains)

If the penetrating spray fails and the flange is metal, you will need to cut it out. This method is only recommended if you are replacing the entire drain and is a favorite among professional plumbers for severely corroded fixtures.

• Use a hacksaw blade (removed from the saw frame) to cut two opposing slots into the drain flange, cutting partway through the fitting from the inside. Be extremely careful not to cut into the shower pan or the PVC pipe underneath.
• Once the cuts are made, insert a flathead screwdriver or a small chisel into one of the slots.
• Tap the screwdriver with a hammer to break the wall of the flange inward toward the center. This relieves the tension and allows you to pry up the pieces of the flange.
• Remove the pieces of the old flange and scrape away all remaining plumber's putty or silicone sealant from the shower pan surface with a utility knife before installing the new drain.

Post-Removal and Reinstallation Tips

Once you successfully take the drain out of the shower, whether it was the cover or the entire flange, the area is exposed for the necessary repair or cleaning. If you were dealing with a clog, now is the time to use a flexible plastic hair snake to clear out any remaining hair and debris from the P-trap.

When you are ready to install the new drain or reinstall the old one, remember the sealant is critical for preventing water damage and leaks:

• Clean the Surface: Ensure the shower pan surface is completely clean and dry where the new flange will sit.
• Apply Silicone: Apply a bead of 100% silicone caulk (not plumber's putty) around the underside of the new drain flange. This creates a permanent, watertight seal that will hold up against the constant moisture in the shower.
• Tighten Correctly: Screw the new drain flange into the drain body, tightening it firmly but without overtightening, which could crack the shower pan.
• Cure Time: Allow the silicone caulk to cure for the manufacturer's recommended time—typically 24 hours—before using the shower to ensure a perfect, leak-free seal.