10 Secrets To A Perfect Fishtail Braid: The Ultimate 2024 Guide For Beginners To Experts

The fishtail braid remains one of the most stunning and timeless hairstyles, known for its intricate, 'fish-scale' texture that looks far more complicated than it actually is. As of December 2025, the trend leans heavily towards the "pancaked" or loosened fishtail, which gives a voluminous, bohemian, and effortlessly chic look. This ultimate guide breaks down the simple two-strand technique, explores the advanced variations like the French and Dutch fishtail, and reveals the pro tips and products you need to achieve a flawless, long-lasting braid, whether your hair is fine, thick, or somewhere in between.

It's a common misconception that this style requires a third hand or a professional stylist, but with a few key adjustments to your tension and section size, you can master the technique on your own hair. The secret lies in consistent, small sections and the crucial final step of 'pancaking' to create that sought-after chunky volume.

Mastering the Classic Fishtail Braid: Step-by-Step for Beginners

Unlike a traditional three-strand braid, the fishtail braid is built on only two main sections, which is what gives it its unique, woven appearance. The key is to maintain a steady, firm tension throughout the process.

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The Essential 6-Step Fishtail Technique

1. Prep Your Hair for Grip: Start with dry hair. For the best grip and texture, especially on clean, slippery hair, apply a generous amount of texturizing spray, dry shampoo, or a sea salt spray from the mid-lengths to the ends. This adds friction and helps the braid hold its shape.
2. Divide into Two Sections: Gather your hair into a ponytail (low or high) or sweep it all over one shoulder. Divide the hair into two equally sized sections. A common mistake for beginners is starting with uneven sections, which will result in a lopsided braid.
3. Isolate the First Strand: From the outer edge of the left section, take a very small strand of hair. The size of this strand determines the detail of your braid: small strands create a detailed, intricate look, while medium strands create a chunkier, quicker braid.
4. The Crossover (The Fishtail Move): Cross this small strand over the top of the left section and join it with the inner edge of the right section. The strand should always travel over the main section.
5. Repeat on the Opposite Side: Now, from the outer edge of the right section, take a new, small strand of hair (aim for the exact same size as the first). Cross this strand over the top of the right section and join it with the inner edge of the left section.
6. Secure and Finish: Continue this process—taking a small outer strand from one side, crossing it over, and adding it to the opposite section—until you reach the end of your hair. Secure the end with a no-show elastic or a clear hair tie.

Advanced Fishtail Braid Variations to Boost Your Style

Once you’ve mastered the classic technique, you can elevate your look by incorporating the braid into different styles. The French and Dutch methods are two of the most popular ways to make the fishtail a head-turning centerpiece.

The French Fishtail Braid (The 'Crown' Look)

The French technique is perfect for creating a braid that starts at the crown of your head and lies flat against the scalp, similar to a traditional French braid.

• Starting Point: Begin by gathering a small section of hair at the top-back of your head, near the crown. Divide this section into two strands.
• The Weaving Process: Perform the classic fishtail crossover (small outer strand over and into the opposite section).
• The French Addition: Before the next crossover, pick up a new, small section of loose hair from the side of your head and add it to the outer strand you are about to cross over. This is the "French" element—incorporating new hair as you braid down the head.
• Continue: Repeat this process, adding new hair from the scalp on both the left and right sides before each crossover, until all your hair is incorporated. Finish with a classic fishtail down the rest of the length.

The Dutch Fishtail Braid (The 'Pop-Out' Look)

Also known as a Reverse Fishtail, the Dutch style is achieved by crossing the strands *under* the main sections instead of over. This technique makes the braid stand out dramatically from the head, creating a stunning 3D effect.

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• The Key Difference: Instead of crossing the small outer strand *over* the main section, you will cross it *under* the main section and join it with the opposite side.
• Dutch Fishtail French Braid: For the most dramatic effect, combine the Dutch and French techniques. Start at the crown, but as you add new hair from the scalp, cross the outer strands *under* the main sections. This creates a bold, raised braid that looks like it's sitting on top of your hair.

Pro Tips and Troubleshooting for a Flawless Finish

Even seasoned braiders run into issues with flyaways, uneven tension, or a braid that looks too skinny. These insider tips, used by professional stylists, will ensure your fishtail braid is polished and voluminous every time.

The Art of Pancaking and Volumizing

A tight, skinny braid is fine, but the modern, voluminous fishtail requires a technique called "pancaking." This is the secret to making the braid look thicker and more bohemian.

• The Technique: Once your braid is secured, start from the top and gently pull on the outer edges of each woven section. Pulling only on the edges makes the loops wider, creating the "pancake" effect without the entire braid falling apart.
• Gradual Pulling: Be subtle at first, gradually increasing the pull as you move down the braid. The tighter the initial braid, the more aggressive you can be with the pancaking.
• Finishing Touch: After pancaking, spritz the entire braid with a flexible hold hairspray to lock the new volume in place.

Troubleshooting Common Fishtail Mistakes

Achieving a perfect fishtail often comes down to avoiding a few common pitfalls. Here is how to fix the issues that frustrate most beginners.

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Mistake 1: The Braid is Too Loose and Falls Apart.

The Fix: The most common error is not maintaining enough tension. Hold your two main sections firmly, close to your head, throughout the entire process. Before crossing a small strand over, give it a gentle tug to ensure it is tight against the main section.

Mistake 2: The Braid Looks Uneven (Thick on One Side).

The Fix: This happens when you take uneven sections. Use your rat-tail comb to ensure the two main sections are equal before you start. More importantly, be meticulous about the size of the small strands you pull from the outside—they must be consistently small and the same size on both sides.

Mistake 3: Flyaways and Frizz.

The Fix: Prep is everything. Before you start, apply a styling cream or a lightweight hair oil to the lengths of your hair to smooth the cuticle and add shine. For stubborn flyaways, use a strong hold hair gel like the Matrix Styling Controller Gel on your fingertips to smooth them down before the final spray.

Essential Fishtail Braid Entities & Products (Topical Authority)

To achieve a professional-level fishtail braid, the right tools and products are non-negotiable. Using these entities will enhance the hold, texture, and longevity of your style.

• Prep Products: Detangling Sprays, Dry Shampoo, Texturizing Spray, Quick Blowout Spray (for a smooth, frizz-free base).
• Hold Products: Styling Creams, Hair Gel (for grip), Control Hairspray (flexible or firm hold), Humidity Resistance Spray.
• Finishing Products: Lightweight Hair Oils (Argan or Jojoba Oil for shine), Shine Spray.
• Tools & Accessories: Rat-Tail Comb (for precise parting), No-Show Elastic Hair Ties (clear or matching hair color), Bobby Pins, Hair Extensions (for added length/volume).

By focusing on consistent small sections, maintaining firm tension, and utilizing the crucial final step of 'pancaking,' you can transform your hair from a simple ponytail to an intricate, envy-inducing fishtail braid. Whether you opt for the classic, the French, or the dramatic Dutch style, practice makes perfect, and the results are always worth the effort.